Cosmopolitan Crete
There is more to Crete than just another Greek island. Its land mass is so great that sometimes
it feels like a country in its own right – steep, affluent and remarkably cosmopolitan with a rich history.
At other times this likeable place offers all you could wish for in a holiday destination - great beaches, championship golf courses, water sports galore, superb shopping, fine dining, ultra deluxe hotels and friendly people.
Written & Photographs by: Veronica Maria Garbutt
Home to Europe's earliest civilization Crete was ruled peacefully by King Minos. Even before 2000 BCE the Minoans had an advanced society and held sway over a maritime trading empire. Excavations at Knossos, Malia and Phaestos reveal grand palaces and fine artworks. Clearly the Minoans were ahead of their time. Later control of the island passed in turn to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Turks. In 1898 Crete was made a British Protectorate. And following the signing of the Treaty of Bucharest in 1913 the island became part of Greece.
Today although tourism is a big earner especially along the north coast Crete has a flourishing agricultural economy. Olives, grapes, almonds, apricots, citrus, figs and melons are grown and fishing is a way of life. It all makes for a healthy Mediterranean diet.
Most visitors arrive in the capital Heraklion, Greece's fifth largest city. Five minutes walk from the seaport or ten minutes by taxi from the airport the elegant Lato hotel is the capital's first boutique property. Opened in 1978 this friendly venture has a superb setting overlooking the Venetian harbor and the new port. All rooms have a balcony with sea or town view, air conditioning, satellite TV, safe, hair dryer and internet. And Junior, Family and Executive suites are available too.
Downstairs the stylish Brilliant gourmet restaurant offers tempting Cretan dishes, handmade pasta, fresh fish and mature cheeses. Brilliant operates from November to end March when the whole team moves to the rooftop Herbs Garden for the summer. And there are more great views from here. The ground floor Aroma restaurant seves lunch and dinner a la carte and the Lounge offers light snacks, drinks and afternoon tea in an unusual futuristic setting. And for keeping fit there is a steam room, mini gym and jacuzzi too (www.lato.gr).
Although it is not the world's most beautiful city, Iraklio, as it is locally known is a convenient base for a night or too to visit the outstanding archaeological museum and nearby Knossos. Plateia Venizelou, also known as Lion Square, is the heart of the city. Pedestrianised streets leading off it are the hub of a buzzing shopping, café and restaurant quarter.
Second in size and importance to Athens National Archaeological Museum, the Archaeological Museum of Iraklio on Xanthoudidou houses a unique collection of Minoand artefacts. It is a showcase of the advanced skills of this ancient people and includes the fabled Procession fresco and Bull Leaping fresco. Highlights of Knossos include the Throne room, Minoan columns, aqueduct and magazines used for storage of grain, corn and oil.
Gaze out to sea from your private pool and watch the cobalt Cretan Sea merge with the azure sky at Sensimar Royal Blue Resort & Spa. This luxurious hideaway lies on the northern coast about fifty minutes by car west of Heraklion, it is located near the pretty village of Panormo and just a short drive to the second city of Rethymnon. Blending into the Mediterranean landscape the resort's modern suites and villas with traditional influences are clustered along a private bay.
Extensive gardens are planted with palm trees, bougainvillea and jasmine. And every suite has its own terrace garden or balcony with jacuzzi. Many have their own personal pool. Facilities include thirty eight pools including one seaside, private beach with water sports, mini-golf course, fitness centre, jewellery boutique and courts for tennis, volleyball and mini-soccer.
The centrally located Pure Senses spa offers a sauna, hammam. A wide range of soothing treatments is available including a Black Pearl facial, Spa Gold body massage and an Exotic Orient exfoliation using nutmeg, natural resins and bamboo particles.
Dining is as formal or informal as you like. Choose from the seaside Kulinarium for light Mediterranean and Cretan cuisine or Symposium for international buffets. Il Posto Azzuro serves delicious Italian food and Junsui Asia is a fine dining Japanese, Polynesian and Asian fusion restaurant. Beyond that, there are four cafes including the local style Kafeinon.
Time now to explore Rethymnon, the jewel in Crete's crown, with the best preserved historical centre. A mix of Venetian and Ottoman buildings adds much to the exotic atmosphere; some of the houses still retain their antique Turkish wooden balconies. There is an attractive town beach, but best of all is the restaurant- lined Venetian harbour, a visual delight.
A former Venetian palace, Avili restaurant is the place for nouveau Cretan fine dining. Here an idyllic garden courtyard filled with pots of herbs, fruit trees, sprawling bougainvillea and artworks makes for a delightful ambience (www.avili.com). Before leaving town be sure to stroll along Ethnikis Andistasis, the market area, climb the fortress and check out the Historical and Folk Art Museum.
While in the area don't miss Chania (pronounced 'Hania'), a former capital with a jumble of streets in the old town and an atmospheric harbour. The Ottomans made Chania the seat of the ruling pasha until 1898 and even today the influence of Venetians and Geonoese can be felt too. It is a city caught between east and west. A fine tradition of craftsmanship makes for good shopping (bags, belts, sandals) and the waterside cafe's are a great place to relax and watch the world go by.
Chania also has a selection of the island's top restaurants some housed in roofless Venetian ruins. Located at the inner harbour Apostolis II is highly rated for fresh fish. If you are missing Arabic food, Pigadi tou Tourkou , a Graeco-Moroccan with a mouth watering menu, combines the two cuisines with dishes from the Middle East. It is housed in a former steam bath house and its name means 'Turk's Well'.
Inspired by the design of Minoan palaces Amirandes Grecotel Exclusive Resort lies 20 minutes east of Heraklion at Gouves. Themed around the lagoons that swirl through its centre the resort's 70,000 square metre area comprises the Elixir spa and indoor pool, outdoor Olympic-sized seawater pool and 60 further pools. Guest rooms feature private gyms, home cinemas and state-of-the-art bathrooms with colour therapy and aromatherapy. Amirandes' five different restaurants are supplied with organic fruit, vegetables, herbs and jams by the resort's Agreco Farm. There is Cretan fare in the Xasteria garden restaurant and contemporary Asian dishes at the waterfront Blue Monkey. Customized menus are available for children and anyone with special dietary or religious requirements (www.amirandes.com).
A short drive away in the mountains is Crete Golf Club. It is a masterpiece by architect Bob Hunt featuring expansive fairways hewn through rocks and ravines. Players soon realize that the emphasis is on accuracy, although the landing areas are generous enough to accommodate all but the most errant shots. Memorable holes include the198-yard par-3 6th and the short 330-yard par-4 11th where the view behind the green is simply breathtaking .
The Club House, which sits on a hill overlooking the first 9 holes of the course, features a restaurant where caring staff serve a variety of food and drinks throughout the day. There is a large outdoor terrace area where golfers can relax in the shade and enjoy their meal or refreshments, a spacious well-appointed locker rooms and a well-stocked pro shop (www.crete-golf.gr).
Heading east from Gouves you will pass through the big and busy resort town of Hernosissos, a former fishing village. Here it is worth visiting Lychnostasis Open air Museum, a showcase of traditional Cretan life past and present. Highlights are a stone-built farmhouse, an olive oil press, a shepherd's shelter and a weaving, dyeing and ceramics workshops (www.lychnostasis.gr).
A few kilometers east the Palace of Malia makes for an enjoyable cultural afternoon out. It lies on the rich agricultural plain between the Lasithi mountains and the sea. Less visited and therefore more tranquil than Knossos there is a real flavour of the ancient Minoan zest for life here.
Should you decide to make this area your base a good choice is the Ikaros Village Malia. As well as all the facilities and services of a top resort, the village offers a complimentary shuttle service to the golf course and also to Star Beach Water Park where there is waterskiing, scuba diving, jet skiing, banana rides, water slides and parasailing (www.ikarosvillage.gr).
Our last port of call on this idyllic island is Elounda. Lying on the northeast coast north of Agios Nikolaos, this is Crete's longest established resort area, home to some of the most exclusive hotels. It was in the 1960s that the first luxury hotel was built and quickly established the area as a vacation spot for Greece's elite and the international glitterati.
My favorite resort is the Elounda Gulf Villas and Suites. The accommodation offers privacy and space along with everything you would expect in a five star hotel. Each of the 18 villas has one to four bedrooms, with a living room, private pool and Jacuzzi along with panoramic views of the Mediterranean. The Presidential and Executive Villas have their own private sauna and gym. And the 10 Luxury Suites are located near the main pool.
Meals are either prepared by your personal chef at Daphni or Argo restaurant where you can enjoy a candlelit dinner. After a day of sport, treatment at the Elixir Spa or beach time you can experience first-hand the natural wonders of the island. Just take a late afternoon cruise around Mirabello Gulf, stopping at a picturesque cove at sundown (www.eloundavillas.com)